Two Epic Hikes in Anaga in One Day: Our Most Unusual Tour Request
A few months ago, my team received a very ambitious request from a family visiting from North America. They wanted to experience two of Anaga’s most iconic adventures — all in a single day.
Their dream itinerary included:
El Pijaral (“The Enchanted Forest”)
Playa de Antequera
A return by water taxi to Playa de las Teresitas
The booking came in three months in advance, which gave us enough time to carefully design the logistics for a day that would be nearly impossible for most travelers to organize on their own.
Why This Plan Was So Challenging
The first hike alone is already demanding: around 6–7 km with steep climbs and descents through one of the wettest parts of Tenerife.
El Pijaral is famous for its mystical atmosphere and restricted access. Entry requires a special permit, and securing one is not always easy. Despite its popularity, the trail itself can surprise visitors — beyond a few spectacular viewpoints, much of the route winds through dense forest along muddy and slippery paths.
The second adventure, the descent to Playa de Antequera, comes with its own complications. While the hike itself is beautiful, the return water taxi depends entirely on Atlantic weather conditions and can be cancelled at short notice if the sea becomes too rough.
To make the day even more comfortable for our guests, we also arranged a catered lunch between hikes.
Rethinking the Classic Route
One of our first decisions was to completely change the traditional circular route through the Enchanted Forest.
Instead of hiking the usual loop, we turned it into a one-way route. This allowed us to:
add three extra viewpoints,
avoid most of the crowds,
and save valuable time for the second hike.
Of course, this kind of setup requires two guides. One guide leads the hiking group, while the second acts as a driver, meeting everyone at the finish point and transferring the group directly to the next trailhead.
A Lucky Start in the Enchanted Forest
We were fortunate enough to officially secure permits for El Pijaral.
By 9 a.m., we had already arrived at the La Ensillada parking area — and surprisingly, the parking lot was completely empty. Normally it’s full of cars. Most likely, people had been discouraged by the forecast of heavy rain.
At that point, however, the weather was still on our side.
The group — four guests plus myself — began the hike right on schedule.
Walking Through a Prehistoric Forest
Almost immediately, we were surrounded by the atmosphere of true laurel forest — an ancient ecosystem that has survived here since the Tertiary period.
Massive píjara ferns (Woodwardia radicans), which gave the reserve its name, made the landscape feel almost prehistoric. Thick moss covered the tree trunks, while the branches of til and viñátigo trees twisted together overhead.
The forest was silent except for the sound of moisture dripping from the leaves.
We took our time, stopping often for photos, and completed the hike in around three and a half hours.
Lunch Stop in Chamorga
While the group finished the trail, I drove the minibus ahead to Chamorga to prepare for lunch.
Luckily, Bar Casa Álvaro was open that day. The owner kindly helped us warm up the food we had brought with us, and we enjoyed lunch with incredible mountain views before continuing the adventure.
Heading Toward Playa de Antequera
After lunch, we quickly transferred to the starting point of our second route: the trail descending toward Playa de Antequera.
This hike is also around 6 km long, though technically much easier since most of the route goes downhill toward the ocean.
We had already booked the water taxi tickets in advance. Prices vary depending on residency status:
around €15 for Canary Islands residents,
around €25 for non-residents.
When the Rain Finally Arrived
Not long after starting the second hike, the weather changed completely.
Heavy rain began pouring across the mountains.
Thankfully, we always carry ponchos and trekking poles for situations like this. They became essential almost immediately.
The real challenge wasn’t the distance — it was the trail itself. Wet clay and exposed roots turned the path dangerously slippery.
Meanwhile, I drove the minibus through the mountains toward Playa de las Teresitas, where I would meet the group after their boat ride.
As I passed the parking area near the Enchanted Forest, I noticed many hikers giving up early and walking back along the road in the rain.
Phone signal often disappears completely in Anaga, but luckily I managed to contact the water taxi crew and asked them to collect our guests about 30 minutes earlier than planned. By then, I knew everyone would already be soaked.
The Perfect Ending to a Wild Day
Despite the rain and difficult conditions, the day ended perfectly.
The family was amazed by the contrast between the different landscapes they experienced in just a few hours:
the mystical, mist-covered forest filled with giant ferns,
the wild black sands of Playa de Antequera,
and the dramatic boat ride along the towering cliffs of Anaga.
Tips for Anyone Planning a Similar Adventure
If you want to experience a day like this yourself, here are my biggest recommendations:
Wear proper hiking shoes with strong grip.
Bring reliable rain protection.
Keep dry clothes in the car for after the hike.
Reserve your El Pijaral permit well in advance.
Always check the weather forecast carefully — conditions in Anaga change incredibly fast.
Why Days Like This Matter
This became one of the most memorable experiences of my guiding career.
Showing people the truly wild side of Anaga — from ancient cloud forests to hidden volcanic beaches — is always something special.
And sometimes, the most unforgettable adventures happen in the rain.
